Gulmarg (Kongdoori-Apharwat)

Scale and off-piste are what Gulmarg is praised for. The gondola lifts you from around 2600 metres to nearly 4000, and the ride itself is called an experience, with the ridgelines called unreal in their sweep. People come above all for the backcountry skiing rather than groomed pistes.

Almost everything else attracts criticism. Avalanche danger can be extreme, with the alpine bowls funnelling into chokepoints that turn whole descents into terrain traps, so first-timers are strongly advised to hire a guide. The cable car is described as under-maintained and the waiting area as filthy, while the lower stage fills up with local day visitors. Touts resell upper-stage tickets at several times the official price, queues get cut and security ignores it. Hotels are compared to the worst European hostels and power cuts are routine. Getting there takes time, and acclimatisation on top of that.