Myoko Akakura

Snow and empty slopes lead the praise: powder is plentiful, midweek lift lines are non-existent and weekend waits run to a couple of minutes. The place rates highly for beginners and intermediates, while Akakura Kanko gives decent backcountry access for anyone versed in avalanche safety. Lifts on the Kanko side are reasonable - a gondola plus three quad chairs, two hooded - and the onsen village is a genuine asset.

The Akakura Onsen lifts draw complaints: old, slow, several without bars or hoods. The bigger grievance is how they are run - half stay shut even on bluebird days, the link between the Onsen and Kanko sides is closed often, and guests are told poorly which lifts are actually turning. Ski patrol gets twitchy about off-piste, particularly where a line crosses under a lift. Challenging groomed terrain is limited and evenings in the village are quiet.