Mount Parnassos - Fterolakka/Kellaria

The praise is for the fact that this is the largest and best-known ski centre in Greece, and midweek it delivers: blue sky, sun, decent snow, empty slopes. Kellaria is the bigger, busier sector, favoured by snowboarders and weaker skiers, and its detachable four-seater is called the most modern lift in the country. On a clear day the gulf is visible from the upper runs, and weekday tickets cost less.

Weekends draw the criticism: crowds arrive from Athens, each lift builds a queue of over half an hour, and after eleven the parking is gone. More serious is the hardware - some lines are called derelict, and there are reviews in which most lifts were not running while staff admitted no maintenance had been done. Wind and poor visibility routinely shut everything but one lift. The toilets are called a disgrace, with no running water, and prices are judged too high for the service.