Alpe Devero

The praise is for unspoilt country and dependable snow: the plateau is open to fronts from the north and the south-west, so cover holds from November into April. What brings people here is ski touring and cross-country: the tours suit every level, from Monte Sangiatto to the Punta di Valdeserta traverse, and the loops across the flats work even for novices. Snowshoeing is popular too, and the walk up to Crampiolo suits beginners.

The downhill side draws criticism as precarious. The lifts - a two-seat chair up Monte Cazzola, a pair of drags and a carpet - mostly run at weekends and in the holidays, with only a handful of runs. The resort came close to closing in 2016 and was saved by a cooperative of residents; one later season ran with no cableways at all, when the chairlift overhaul dragged on and a manager was appointed only in late November. Only the nursery carpet turned.