Campo Felice - Rocca di Cambio

What visitors like most is the access: a little over an hour's drive from Rome, which makes it a natural day trip. They appreciate that there is no village up top, just forest, snow and mountains. The pistes are wide and hold up when properly prepared, with greens for learners and reds for confident skiers. Snowmaking has been noticeably expanded, and families single out the sledging.

Organisation on busy days is what people tear into. Reviews describe a three-hour wait at the ticket office and hour-long lines for rentals, the bar and the chairlift. Grooming is another sore point: rocks on the surface and sheets of ice are reported even after fresh snowfall. A 43-euro day pass is called outrageous when half the lifts run and part of the terrain is shut. The lift machinery is dated and cannot cope, the toilets are called disgusting, and the runs are short.