Disentis

The quiet is what reviewers love: midweek the pistes are near empty, there are no lift lines and the mountain restaurants have space. The standout is the off-piste, with lift-accessed powder called exceptionally good and the area treated as an insider tip among freeriders. The big vertical gives genuinely long descents, the groomed terrain suits beginners and intermediates, and the joint pass with Andermatt and Sedrun widens the options.

Food is the weak point in almost every account: the choice on the mountain is poor, and the vast self-service restaurant at Caischavedra charges customarily high prices. Accommodation in the village is judged expensive for a resort this size. Anyone staying a week finds the area starts to feel small, with few route options and the same runs coming round quickly.