La Grave la Meije

The praise is for terrain with few equals in the Alps: more than two kilometres of wild vertical from the top station - couloirs, cliff bands and some of the best tree skiing around. The classic line, the Vallons de la Meije, sees almost no sun until March, so powder keeps for weeks. Even on good days it is empty. The village gets credit too, stone houses with no resort sprawl, along with the local guides.

The same things draw criticism. There are no piste machines and one prepared run, a blue on the glacier; below the top station there is no signage, no patrol and no avalanche control, all at your own risk. Nobody recommends going without a guide, and for beginners it is dangerous. The 1970s cable car takes about half an hour and carries few people, so a line builds even with an empty mountain. Wind and unstable snow close the upper section - one account describes three days in a row.