OZ 3300

The praise goes to a rare combination: a tiny village of timber chalets stays quiet while the lifts from its doorstep lead into one of France's largest domains. Reviews confirm the Grandes Rousses terrain really is varied, from tree runs and gentle greens to couloirs and serious blacks, which suits mixed groups. Many come for the famous long black descent off the Pic Blanc.

Getting home is where complaints start. Descents to the village are limited: blue and red options exist from one side, but anyone returning from Alpette and Vaujany must handle a section marked black, which catches beginners out. Local pistes are few, so the full area pass is essential. The slopes face the sun and are not high, so snow turns heavy late in the season. Village upkeep is a separate grievance, with paths turning to black ice.