Sonnenkopf - Klösterle

Sonnenkopf is praised as the quiet way into the Arlberg: the same pass, none of the crowds of St Anton or Lech, and snow on the north-facing slopes that often holds up better than at its famous neighbours, partly through aspect and partly because far fewer people ski it. The descents are long, with lift-served freeriding some compare to Alta and Snowbird, the motorway exit is practically at the base, and the top suits families.

The lift layout is what frustrates people. The top station of the gondola sits awkwardly enough that you cannot leave it without short surface tows, the whole area is stitched together by low-capacity drags, and three of the four chairlifts are slow. The result is a resort that feels busy even when it is not, because everyone piles up at the tows. Scale is the other reservation: the piste selection is decent but the area is small.