Valfréjus

The praise is for value: passes, food and drink cost noticeably less than at the better-known French stations. Valfréjus is a compact village away from the tourist flow, so queues are rare - the exception being the nine o'clock rush at the gondola. When cover is good, almost every bed works as true ski-in/ski-out, and there is easy, safe off-piste beside the runs for first turns off the groomers.

Sameness of terrain draws criticism: the runs are fast and fun but lack the variety of neighbouring areas, and the only seriously demanding descent reviewers name is the mogulled, cut-up Souches back to the village. Beginners and children are short of options, since returning to Chamasson means taking a red. The lift company gets its share too: visitors describe bluebird days with village runs shut and lifts idle. The single supermarket is another sore point, at roughly double Modane prices.